Greetings to all readers.
One of my FT-817 radios (used as IF transceivers for microwave bands) has developed a strange situation inside the DC input connector. I'm looking for helpful suggestions that may lead to a solution.
What has actually happened is that a 1.5mm thick annulus of plastic has snapped cleanly of the distal end of one of the DC input plugs that come with each radio, and this little 'ring' of plastic has been left behind inside the DC input socket, preventing proper seating and connection of any other plug in the input socket of this particular radio.
Has anyone had this happen before and discovered a way to remove the little ring of plastic from inside the socket? I have already tried using two sewing needles to encourage it to move outwards, approaching the problem from the outside, but without success. And the rear of the DC input socket is all 'closed off'. One idea I have had is that a 1 mm wide 'chisel' could possibly be used to cut what's there into pieces, but I don't have one..... And, of course, buying a replacement socket from one of the suppliers may be a solution as well.
Another 'solution' could be to only use the DC input plug that has had its end snapped off with the particular radio that now has the problem, but that's not practical in the situation where different FT-817s are used interchangeably.....
All suggestions will be gratefully received....
Cheers and 73,
--Doug Friend, VK4OE.
FT-817 DC Input Socket
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ZL2WHO
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Re: FT-817 DC Input Socket
Hi Doug.
I haven't encounted your issue but iv never been happy with the DC plug/socket arrangement, presumeably its the same on the 897.
The plug and socket have 2 pins neg and 2 pin pos but they dont mate tight so I suspect there is a volt drop across them under load.
Its been my intention to remove the socket from the back of the radio and bin it then replace it with a XT60 connector or the like.
Mark
ZL2WHO
I haven't encounted your issue but iv never been happy with the DC plug/socket arrangement, presumeably its the same on the 897.
The plug and socket have 2 pins neg and 2 pin pos but they dont mate tight so I suspect there is a volt drop across them under load.
Its been my intention to remove the socket from the back of the radio and bin it then replace it with a XT60 connector or the like.
Mark
ZL2WHO
Re: FT-817 DC Input Socket
Thanks Mark for your suggestion - it is a passing concern for me as well, but I'm not about to fix things that "ain't broke yet"!
You and other readers may be interested in the fact that I have solved my problem already following a very helpful suggestion from Guy at "VK Radio Repairs", the Yaesu service specialist in this country.
With the top cover removed, and using a "third hand' bench vice, I simply set up the radio in a vertical state with the back panel at the bottom, in a way that I could see at the side of the back of the DC input socket the tiny movement of the ground connection when the other part of the broken plug (and it was an original Yaesu plug that broke!) was inserted.
It was then an easy matter of inserting a very small jeweller's screwdriver to hold back the moveable ground connection and, on removing the plug, the snapped-off bit of plastic just dropped out! Problem quickly solved with no damage at all.
When one has access to the experiences of others, life becomes so much more meaningful, doesn't it?!!
Cheers and 73,
--Doug Friend, VK4OE.
You and other readers may be interested in the fact that I have solved my problem already following a very helpful suggestion from Guy at "VK Radio Repairs", the Yaesu service specialist in this country.
With the top cover removed, and using a "third hand' bench vice, I simply set up the radio in a vertical state with the back panel at the bottom, in a way that I could see at the side of the back of the DC input socket the tiny movement of the ground connection when the other part of the broken plug (and it was an original Yaesu plug that broke!) was inserted.
It was then an easy matter of inserting a very small jeweller's screwdriver to hold back the moveable ground connection and, on removing the plug, the snapped-off bit of plastic just dropped out! Problem quickly solved with no damage at all.
When one has access to the experiences of others, life becomes so much more meaningful, doesn't it?!!
Cheers and 73,
--Doug Friend, VK4OE.
Re: FT-817 DC Input Socket
I know this is a late response to your question, Doug, but you might consider installing a powerpole adaptor permanently on your 817. I’ve done that and it looks like a solid connection that provides the powerpole socket needed, rather than the loose wire I once used. They have been offered by a seller on ebay but I don’t have the details to hand.
In one of my 817s I have installed the 3AH LIPO battery sourced from China, I find that lasts for a long time (at least 5 hours intermittent low power rx/tx) and makes the rear DC socket a backup that is rarely required for my typical use of the radio.
73 Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
In one of my 817s I have installed the 3AH LIPO battery sourced from China, I find that lasts for a long time (at least 5 hours intermittent low power rx/tx) and makes the rear DC socket a backup that is rarely required for my typical use of the radio.
73 Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Re: FT-817 DC Input Socket
I just use a small piece of sheet aluminium to hold my FT-817 connectors in place.
73
Iain Crawford - VK5ZD
Munno Para West, SA - PF95ih
Iain Crawford - VK5ZD
Munno Para West, SA - PF95ih
Re: FT-817 DC Input Socket
Hi Ian,
Yes I’ve seen a few variations on the plug retainer idea. I couldn’t use that, as a previous owner of the radio lost the original dc cable with the right-angled plug. A standard plug it is even more likely to be pulled out. So the powerpole adaptor was a great solution.
Cheers
Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes I’ve seen a few variations on the plug retainer idea. I couldn’t use that, as a previous owner of the radio lost the original dc cable with the right-angled plug. A standard plug it is even more likely to be pulled out. So the powerpole adaptor was a great solution.
Cheers
Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Re: FT-817 DC Input Socket
Hi guys,
I am also struggling with this problem. I think I have been able to remove the broken off plastic ring through gentle persuasion with a straightened out gem clip. I have also purchased a Sotabeams power pole FT817 connector as suggested by Andrew above, but that plug doesn't fit snugly into the socket. The radio doesn't fire up unless I manually jiggle the thing around, but it shuts down at a whim soon after. So I am thinking of removing the DC socket completely and soldering in the Sotabeams attachment permanently. This would, of course, mean replacing the Sotabeams wire and plug with a longer length of red and black wires that connect to the power pole connectors on the one end, then rehousing this in the black protective housing, and then soldering the other ends directly to the 817s PCB. My question at this stage is this: mention is made above of there being two positive and two negative points on the original socket. If I remove the socket, should I connect each of these two together (the two positives and the two negatives) before soldering on the new power leads?
Grant VK4JAZ
I am also struggling with this problem. I think I have been able to remove the broken off plastic ring through gentle persuasion with a straightened out gem clip. I have also purchased a Sotabeams power pole FT817 connector as suggested by Andrew above, but that plug doesn't fit snugly into the socket. The radio doesn't fire up unless I manually jiggle the thing around, but it shuts down at a whim soon after. So I am thinking of removing the DC socket completely and soldering in the Sotabeams attachment permanently. This would, of course, mean replacing the Sotabeams wire and plug with a longer length of red and black wires that connect to the power pole connectors on the one end, then rehousing this in the black protective housing, and then soldering the other ends directly to the 817s PCB. My question at this stage is this: mention is made above of there being two positive and two negative points on the original socket. If I remove the socket, should I connect each of these two together (the two positives and the two negatives) before soldering on the new power leads?
Grant VK4JAZ
Grant, Brisbane, QG62ll
Achieving more with less.
Achieving more with less.
Re: FT-817 DC Input Socket
Grant,
Sorry for the long delay in this response. You may well have a solution to that problem by now.
I found that the plug on the dc cable provided with the radio (which was sold to me by the 2nd owner) was not reliable and at one point I did decide to remove the socket and soldered a cable with a powerpole socket mounted on it.
The process of removing the socket is not trivial for an occasional desolderer, the main problem is a fat electrolytic capacitor right next to one of the pads needing to be desoldered. I did it successfully but I would not recommend it. Later I decided to reinstall the socket as I found a plug that better matched the socket. I think the diameter rating of the centre pin was the main problem. There are 2 or 3 “standard” sizes and I suspect the after market for parts is not always providing exact sizes.
Now I rarely use the external power option as my internal 3S LIPO is sufficient for several hours of SOTA or microwave work. I still have the option of the external power, with the LIPO turned off (otherwise the external power source would be charging the LIPO - I’m not sure whether it would do so correctly, would the lipo control board stop the charging when it was full, possibly? My only method of charging the LIPO is to use the plug pack and connect via the socket on the battery door. It recharges in a few hours.
73 Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sorry for the long delay in this response. You may well have a solution to that problem by now.
I found that the plug on the dc cable provided with the radio (which was sold to me by the 2nd owner) was not reliable and at one point I did decide to remove the socket and soldered a cable with a powerpole socket mounted on it.
The process of removing the socket is not trivial for an occasional desolderer, the main problem is a fat electrolytic capacitor right next to one of the pads needing to be desoldered. I did it successfully but I would not recommend it. Later I decided to reinstall the socket as I found a plug that better matched the socket. I think the diameter rating of the centre pin was the main problem. There are 2 or 3 “standard” sizes and I suspect the after market for parts is not always providing exact sizes.
Now I rarely use the external power option as my internal 3S LIPO is sufficient for several hours of SOTA or microwave work. I still have the option of the external power, with the LIPO turned off (otherwise the external power source would be charging the LIPO - I’m not sure whether it would do so correctly, would the lipo control board stop the charging when it was full, possibly? My only method of charging the LIPO is to use the plug pack and connect via the socket on the battery door. It recharges in a few hours.
73 Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk