VK Logger Ham Radio Forum Archive

Does anyone know where I could find those horseshoe shaped power clips for a PSU? I'm referring to the type below:


None of the search terms I'm feeding in seem to give me any links. Also need to get some wire too. Paid a trip to Dick Smith in Queen Street but was a wasted trip.

Thanks alot.

Just get banana plugs which plug straight into the back of the sockets.

You can buy them at Jaycar: http://search.jaycar.com.au/search?w=banana%20plug

The other option, when the terminal posts have insulated nuts that won't completely unscrew, is to get ring lugs of a suitable size, and use side-cutters to cut out a portion - making them a "U" terminal. Ring lugs are easy to find - "U" lugs less so, I think.

Sadly. just about any trip to DS is going to be a wasted effort these days...

73,
Barry
VK3BJM

Thanks for the fast response! Time to do some online shopping now.
Dick Smith in Queen Street is basically a computer store with some TVs and peripherals.

VK/9V1CJ wrote:Does anyone know where I could find those horseshoe shaped power clips for a PSU? I'm referring to the type below:


None of the search terms I'm feeding in seem to give me any links. Also need to get some wire too. Paid a trip to Dick Smith in Queen Street but was a wasted trip.

Thanks alot.

Check the local directory for an electrical wholesale or hardware , even supercheap auto carry small packets of crimp connectors for car work , if they dont have spade connectors then use the std ring type and as suggested snip the side out , the psu shown will grip them on the posts well enough

VK/9V1CJ wrote:Does anyone know where I could find those horseshoe shaped power clips for a PSU? I'm referring to the type below:


None of the search terms I'm feeding in seem to give me any links. Also need to get some wire too. Paid a trip to Dick Smith in Queen Street but was a wasted trip.

Thanks alot.

The fork size varies, you may get away with 6mm or less, but 6.4mm suits most larger power supplies. 8mm will not suit smaller supplies. Buy quality connectors, be wary of some of the stuff on eBay.

Yellow will be required for most substantial cables, things like FT817, some FM radios etc will require blue.

You will need to use an effective crimp tool to install these, that means one of the ratchet crimp jobbies (no substitutes). To avoid doubt, these connectors are solely for crimping, do not solder them, do not tin the wires before crimping (that will assure a loose crimp in double quick time). Hams have lots of recipes and prejudices about crimping, but good crimp connectors, properly applied to clean wire with the correct tooling is reliable and quick.

It might be cost effective to get an autoelectrician to crimp some lugs onto your cable.
I often shrink some red and black heatshrink over them to help to reduce the chance of reversing polarity.

Owen

Or Bunnings... I bought my last lot at Bunnings. Where there isn't a Bunnings, such as in smaller country towns, you will almost always find them in your automotive stores like Supercheap or Repco.

I agree with Owen that using a proper crimping tool is best but I bet most of us have been caught out without a pair so a decent set of pliers and a bit of muscle will do the job (but not as well).

Cheers

Richard
VK2AAH

I buy power lead from marine outlet 20a and 40a twinlead which is TINNED and

doesnt corrode . I solder all my connections as crimping is lossy when it corrodes.
ciao Ron

A correct sized crimp tool will give a gas tight crimp..using pliers does not provide a gas tight crimp and will lead to a poor connection..you wud be better to solder then crimp with pliers or buy the correct tool

True Peter but there are crimp tools and then there are crimp tools... buying a cheap sub-$10 pair from an automotive chain store will not be much better than a good set of pliers. If you want a good pair of crimpers prepare to pay- I think I (read: my employer) paid $30 at TLE for mine (and there are different ones for insulated & uninsulated lugs so the cost is really $60). If people want to be absolutely 110% sure of the termination then solder AND crimp.

But we've digressed...

Cheers

Richard
VK2AAH

VK2AAH wrote:...If people want to be absolutely 110% sure of the termination then solder AND crimp.

I am talking about ordinary electrical connections for indoors, out of the weather or protected from weather.

I would argue that if you solder before crimping (as implied in the quote), you have loaded the interstitial space with a soft lead alloy which will cold flow over time under pressure from the subsequent crimp, and become loose. It is bad practice to tin the ends of stranded conductors to be placed into screw terminals or crimp terminals.

If you solder after crimping, the solder wicks back up the cable and creates a stress raiser at the end of the solder wicking. The cable is less flexible up to the end of the solder wicking, and is more likely to fatigue at this stress raiser than if it were just crimped properly.

Owen

One of the greatest concerns I have when inspecting the work of many installers is poor/loose crimping resulting in an exposed live wire floating around in a cabinet... there are always going to be intellectual debates over which method is best but one thing trumps everything else- safety. People should bear that in mind.

Cheers,


Richard
VK2AAH

RS components Cat No 267-3931 and like others have said get a good crimp tool.

I agree with Owen's suggestion to dressthem with heatshrink. Sometimes you can mix the two yellow connectors up when connecting them to a supply.

Interesting topic and perhaps I should pony up the the cash for a quality crimp tool.
Thanks for the advice and item codes.

VK/9V1CJ wrote:Interesting topic and perhaps I should pony up the the cash for a quality crimp tool.
Thanks for the advice and item codes.

If you do, make sure you buy one with a releasable ratchet... lest you start to close the tool with the terminal in the wrong cavity.

Adjustable closure is good.

There are some good ones on eBay if you know what you are looking for. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Crimp-Tool-W ... 4abe786bf4 at $25 posted might be ok.

Owen

Just a quick tip, I use a tool almost identical to that a lot wiring up rally cars. What I do is use the tool upside down, so my fingers are on the fixed part of the handle/frame, and use my palm to push the moving handle closed. Generally more efficient and less fatiguing than using your fingers to squeeze the moving handle and ratchet shut... at least when you are doing 100+ terminations in a session

73 - Rob VK2GOM / GW0MOH

Thanks Owen. This hobby is burning a hole in my pocket

Take your leads to any mechanic or auto electric place and get them to crimp a couple terminals,they probably wont even charge you.

cheers
Frank

There are some good ones on eBay if you know what you are looking for. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Crimp-Tool-W ... 4abe786bf4 at $25 posted might be ok.

Received one of these today.

A good quality item, heavy, smooth action, and it appears to be identical to the Utilux branded one elsewhere in the seller's listings i.e. the full kit of various types of terminals and crimper, all in a carry case.