Care for Keys...

[VK3BJM]

G'day.

I have a couple of questions for our key-keen brethren.

It was commented on a couple of nights ago, via the Logger by another VK3, that there was a strange sounding signal on 144.135 MHz. As it happened, it was ME. And my key - particularly my key. I fired up my FT-817 to monitor the transmitted signal, and it sounded to me as though the contacts on my Hi-Mound HH-710 could be a bit on the dirty side.

So, I wondered if there were any recommended methods for the cleaning of key contacts, and possible ways to aid in preventing them getting "dirty". (Apart from the bleeding obvious, which is to use it a lot... ) I have a small quantity of "Microscrub", which we wee apprentices used to use cleaning relay contacts in Ericsson Crossbar Relay Sets (first year of training couldn't end soon enough... ). This may be perfect, but I'd hate to use it if it was too abrasive. I think the Hi-Mound contacts are brass?

Secondly, would anyone be brave enough to recommend a suitable lubricant for the pivot points of the key? I bought this key in 1990 or so; and about 12 years ago I cleaned the factory "grease", that was starting to congeal, from the works and replaced it with something that had lithium in it (iirc). That was good for a while, but now it's starting to stick again, for the same reason I suspect. So, what would be the way to go? Another type of grease? Something thinner? Sewing machine oil? Bear grease, duck butter, Rimula X??

73,
Barry
VK3BJM

[VK3AUU]

Back in days of yore, like 60 years ago, there was a substance called Servisol which would act as both a cleaner and a lubricant. I don't know if it is still available.

73, (not Best 73's)

David

[VK3YE]

I've just run a piece of paper through the key contacts occasionally

[VK2EM]

I agree, Peter.

A piece of dry newspaper without writing on it (no printer's ink) is an excellent contact cleaner. Also, if the bearings are Brass, or part brass, they probably don't need lubricant, as brass is self-lubricating.

73
Bruce VK2EM

[VK2CSW]

As for a lubricant, and I know this sounds a bit out there, but in gunsmithing where hard and similar metals are prone to gumming up the solution is lighter fluid.

In fact a number of manufacturers of precision triggers and firearms recommend it.

The theory is that you 'flood' the gummed up bearing surfaces with the lighter fluid. This breaks up and flushes the gummy muck.

When the fluid evaporates, it leaves behind a very very very fine sheen of oil. Apparently this is less likely to attract and grab particles and so doesn't gum up.

I am not sure about the electrical characteristics.

Offered as a left field solution.

[VK3BJM]

Thanks for the responses so far. Including an email reply from Owen, Vk1OD, the three votes for using a sheet of paper have resulted in my doing just that. After a couple of pull-throughs, and a couple of quite dark marks left on the paper, the paper is now coming out reasonably unmarked. I'll see how it goes on air.

As for the pivot point: I've just taken the tops off each side, to remind myself what metal type is in use. There's no brass here; there are miniature ball races, with 4 small steel ball bearings on each side. The axle is also steel. My options are to soften the existing grease by mixing a little machine oil with it; or if someone suggests another type of grease then perhaps give that a shot. It needs to have some degree of stickiness, I think, otherwise reassembling the ball races will be a right royal pain...

73,
Barry
VK3BJM

[VK3HJ]

I too, use a piece of paper through the contacts of my Bencher paddles. Occasionally, moisture condenses on the contacts, and away it goes sending randomly! It gave me quite a shock the first time it happened, in the middle of a QSO!
I always have scrap paper to scribble notes on, and just run a clean piece through the contacts, with a little pressure on the paddle to cause the contacts to bear down on the paper.
As for ball races, I had a similar problem with the VFO vernier on my FT-901. The ancient grease had petrified! I pulled the vernier out and cleaned up all traces of the old grease with a solvent - metho I think, and dried and re-greased it. Good as new.
Luke VK3HJ

[VK4TI]

Thanks for the responses so far. Including an email reply from Owen, Vk1OD, the three votes for using a sheet of paper have resulted in my doing just that. After a couple of pull-throughs, and a couple of quite dark marks left on the paper, the paper is now coming out reasonably unmarked. I'll see how it goes on air.

As for the pivot point: I've just taken the tops off each side, to remind myself what metal type is in use. There's no brass here; there are miniature ball races, with 4 small steel ball bearings on each side. The axle is also steel. My options are to soften the existing grease by mixing a little machine oil with it; or if someone suggests another type of grease then perhaps give that a shot. It needs to have some degree of stickiness, I think, otherwise reassembling the ball races will be a right royal pain...

73,
Barry
VK3BJM

I use a squirt of lighter fluid or similar solvent to clean (compressed degreaser spray) and then a splash or silicon spay , I use mig tip spray but there are others around the house , repeat yearly or a few million dits

[VK2XQ]

I am an old fashioned straight key operator, have been from the start, and will be right to the end. Yep, the Tally-Ho cigarette rice papers are just perfect to drag through the contact gap on any key.

Singer Sewing machine oil is ideal for the other movable parts, also a little WD-40 lightly wiped on the springs and bearing brace also keeps things in good working order and helps ward off any corrosion (especially if you live by the sea).

Jack D. Haden VK2XQ (QF-56ne)

[VK4CRO]

I use a non residual solvent - and pull thru with crocus paper
(an abrasive paper -very fine grade )
ciao Ron cro

[VK4BLP]

As for a lubricant, and I know this sounds a bit out there, but in gunsmithing where hard and similar metals are prone to gumming up the solution is lighter fluid.

In fact a number of manufacturers of precision triggers and firearms recommend it.

The theory is that you 'flood' the gummed up bearing surfaces with the lighter fluid. This breaks up and flushes the gummy muck.

Offered as a left field solution.

Likewise a product called Shellite is another option to clean out the contacts. It also works on the adhesive on stickers and other self adhesive labels.